It's a fact, that most of the Bengalis more or less love sweets and among various type of sweets, Rasgolla will undisputedly come first. For centuries, this 'Chhena'/Cheese based, ball shaped syrupy dessert continues to fascinate the Bengalis as well as the Oriyas. No wonder, that apart from the common border we also share common culture and food habits. 

Few months  ago, in the month of October 2019 I went to Bhubneshwar and get the chance to visit Pahala Rasgolla Market and to taste the Oriya version of our favourite sweets. I was inspired by a short video posted in Odisha  Tourism's page, which was recorded by well-known TV Anchor & Food Writer Mr. Bikramjit Ray, on his trip to Pahala.

Here, I am going to share my experience.

I started from Gautam Nagar in Bhubaneswar for Pahala around quarter to twelve in the Morning. It took about 30 minutes to reach Pahala via Cuttack Road.

Pahala Rasgulla Market is actually clusters of roadside shops and they are located at both sides of the National Highway NH16 in a place called Pahala, which is in between Bhubneshwar and Cuttack.  (distance from Bhubaneswar 11.3 km) 

Unlike other places, there is no such 'Original' or 'Most Authentic' confectioner in Pahala. Interestingly, the Quality & Taste of the sweets are same in all the shops and all of them sell, just 3 varieties of sweets. I went to "Sunya Mandira Sweets Shop". The shop owner told me that, there are mainly three markets in Pahala, Prachi ; Kalinga & Lakshmi and Prachi is the biggest among them. Business hours in Pahala Rasgolla market is around 18 hours a day. 

There are, approximately 100 -120 shops  and almost four hundred (400) people are  directly or indirectly depending on this market. Recently, their business is getting effected by the ongoing Highway extension project. 

What I felt that, from Packaging to Marketing there are huge scope of improvements in Pahala Rasgolla Market. The shop owners expect that, government may provide them some facilities, even there are possibilities that, a 'Sweetmeat Hub' may be develop in future.

Every day late in the Evening fresh Rasgollas are prepared from 3 basic  ingredients 'Chhena' (cottage cheese), Semolina and Sugar also a hint of Elaichi (Cardamom) is used for flavouring.  Apart from these, no additional flavourings or any preservatives are used. 'Chhena' is kneaded with semolina and Elaichi powder,  shaped into small round balls and boiled in sugar syrup of thick consistency.

Depending on the ingredients, two (2) varieties of Rasgollas, Sugar-syrup based and Jaggery-syrup based and again,  depending on the size, two (2) types of Rasgollas, Large size (costs INR12.00) and comparatively Smaller size (costs INR 5.00) are available in Pahala Rasgolla market. Recently Oriya version Rasgolla get its GI Tag.

Some people believe that  Rasgolla originated in the present-day Odisha, as khirmohana and has been the traditional offering to the Hindu goddess Lakshmi.

The traditional Oriya Rasgollas are softer, creamish in color with a milder sweetness and equally thin sugar syrup. Oriya confectioners embed Cardamom seeds inside Rasgollas.

Apart from Rasgolla there are also two other Chenna based sweets varieties: ChenaPora and ChenaGoja. Which are equally tempting and scrumptious and have unique tastes.

While making ChenaPora, cottage cheese is kneaded with Semolina and Sugar till it becomes light and fluffy. The dough is then baked overnight in an aluminium container covered with Sal leaves over a clay chulah. Whereas , Chenna Goja is deep-fried cheese soaked in sugar syrup.

Pahala is like Call of a Wonderland for the Sweetmeat-lovers. After I reached there, my feeling was like the two little brother & sister "Hansel and Gretel" who arrived at a cottage made of candy and chocolates while  wandering in forest. But like the crooked witch in that fairy tale my Diabetes kept on scaring me.

The world of Oriya sweets is so vast and certainly it is not limited within Pahala or Rasgolla. As I have said, ChenaPora & ChenaGoja are also quite popular in Pahala.

The discussion about traditional Oriya sweets will be incomplete without mentioning the famous 'Khaja' sweets of Puri. Renowned shops like, Original Nrusingha Sweets; Kakatua Mistanna Bhandar; Ganguram and others. Other varieties of sweets are also available in Puri. 

105 k.m. away from  Puri, there is Bikalanda Kar's famous 'Rasagola' shop in Salepur, which become a brand name of Oriya-version Rasgolla and whose popularity spread not just in Salipur but all over Odisha. Beside Rasgolla it also offers varieties of traditional Oriya sweets like, Rasabali, Khirmohana, ChenaKhai etc. 

Apart from that, there are wide range of Lip-smacking Pitha / Arisa ( Pancakes ) & Ladoos available in Odisha. Like, Gur Arisa, whose main ingredients are Jaggery,  Rice flour,  Sesame,  Fennel seeds and oil or Clarified Butter. 

Ukhuda Ladoo which is prepared by mixing fried Paddy, Carom seeds and slices of Coconut in caramelized Jaggery syrup.

Murmura  ( Crispy/ Puffed Rice ) Ladoo which is prepared by mixing roasted crispy Rice and dark sticky Jaggery syrup. 

Rasi Ladoo which is prepared by mixing roasted Sesame seeds, Peanuts ( or Cashews ) and dark sticky Jaggery syrup.

Odisha's Bhadrak is not only known for Goddess Bhadrakali Temple and entry point of Bhitarkanika forest but it also famous for its most popular and sweetest dessert , Palua Ladoo. It is available only at few places including at Sai Sweet Stall. The main ingredients are Semolina,  Wheat Flour,  Arrowroot and Sugar. Though its recipe is one of the best kept-secret recipe for decades.  

Also, region wise there are many varieties of popular Sweetmeat delicacies in Odisha. Like, Sambalpur's  'Sarsatia' which is prepared from the Resin of twigs of 'Ganjer' trees.

There is, Kora khai , which is used to serve in Lingaraja temple, Bhubaneswar. It is prepared with four basic  ingredients fried Paddy or Khai , Sugar / Jaggery syrup, Coconut and Cardamom. There are several shops in Bada Danda Sahi in Bhubneshwar which sell this delicacy and 'Baya Baba Kora Khai' is the oldest among them.

Chhena Jhilli is another sweet delight of Odisha which is originated at Nimapada. Odisha  Government is soon going to apply GI Tag for Chhena Jhilli.

The list of Oriya Sweets delicacy is so long that it's difficult to discuss  in a single post. If ever I get opportunity to visit these places in future,  I'll definitely share those experiences with my readers.

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